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The Denim Roundup

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Jessie Ajluni | Wednesday March 29th 2017

 

Denim

Let me start off be prefacing this with the fact that I am a denim junky. You heard it straight from the source. We here at All The Pretty Birds are all a little crazy over denim and are always looking out for the latest and greatest trend. I would say that probably 70% of my wardrobe consists of the stuff and as much as my husband would love that there is more space in our dresser drawers, I just can’t ever seem to part with these precious pieces.  

It’s a good thing, too, as my obsession is shared by some truly stylish fashion tastemakers. We’ve rounded up some of the who’s who of the industry to share with you their most loved pieces, where they see the market going, and some simple ways to keep your much loved denim staples looking just as good as the day you bought them.

 

Mimi Fukuyoshi

Bergdorf Goodman VP/DMM 5F Contemporary

What is your favorite piece of denim you’ve ever owned? 

My first pair of selvedge jeans, APC New Cures bought 20 years ago.  I could not break them in for the life of me so I gave them to my father, who is a chef.  We wear the same size.  I asked him to wear them to work, every day, for one year, never wash them and give them back to me, which he did.  They came back and they are perfect.   

What should you look for when investing quality denim? 

I’m definitely in the minority here, but I don’t wear stretch denim.  If you want true quality denim, you want a selvedge jean made in the U.S. or Japan.  Selvedge refers to denim that has been woven on shuttle looms, resulting in a tightly woven band running up the fabric’s edge, preventing it from fraying.  It is more durable, breaks into a perfect fit and develops a beautiful fade that even the best wash house can’t replicate.  The longer you wear it, the better it looks.  

What are the current trends you are seeing in the denim market? 

Fits are ever-evolving.  Cropped flares are still popular.  But I’d say that the biggest trend is that it isn’t relegated to just the weekends anymore.  It can be the cornerstone of a dressy or work appropriate outfit, depending on what you wear it with.  And it’s also increasingly not just for bottoms but featured in unexpected shapes and classifications, from ballgowns to pumps to handbags.

 

Erin Meehan

AGOLDE, Designer

What is your favorite piece of denim you’ve ever owned? 

A pair of vintage Levi’s I purchased from the Rose Bowl about 5 years ago. They are the inspiration for our new 90’s fit being introduced for Fall 17. They have a long rise and sit on the hips perfectly, with an easy straight leg and perfect slight taper when cuffed. 

What should you look for when investing quality denim?

When I hear the word quality the first thing that comes to mind is fabric. As a denim designer it’s the always the first step in the development process. For skinny fits in stretch this should be something that has a high quality elasticity. Do a few squats in the fitting room and make sure that the denim molds back to your body nicely and isn’t bagging out too much. Anything in a non-skinny fit which has a comfort stretch or non-stretch fabric should just slightly ease more to the body with wear. 

What are the current trends you are seeing in the denim market? 

It’s definitely a throwback to the denim of the 80’s and 90’s, but updating in a sleek modern way. Taking 80’s inspired fashion details from a pinched waist rounded fit, and adding them to a high rise that sits square on the body. Taking a slouchy 90’s grunge fit and tailoring it into the perfect oversized straight leg. 

 

Elizabeth Leventhal

Moda Operandi GMM of RTW

What is your favorite piece of denim you’ve ever owned? 

If we’re talking vintage, it’s my 501 Levis. Currently, I’m also loving Re/Done’s high-rise patchwork jeans.

What are the current trends you are seeing in the denim market? 

Mom jean, 90’s straight leg, or high waisted — skinny or flare — are currently the go-to’s. We are introducing Khaite this season who are known for their Vanessa skinny jean, which has quickly become an office favorite. We always offer novelty options as well; denim is a bit like jewelry in that it’s extremely personal.

What’s your best tip to keep your denim in perfect condition?

I follow two rules: always wash your denim inside out to prevent fading and air dry to preserve fit. When you need a little refresher, toss in the dryer for 10 mins and back to new!

 

Alberto Candiani

Candiani Denim USA President/Global Manager

What is your favorite piece of denim you’ve ever owned? 

I bought a raw rigid pair of Blue Blue in Tokyo when I was 18, I never washed them, as true purist would do… And frankly I’m not such a purist, but more a visionary innovator of Denim. They ripped and I repaired them, they bled and I did not care about my white couch, but since they do not fit me any more I just keep them in my office to remind me how skinny I was 15 years ago. I still use that pair of Jeans as an inspiration piece to replicate the aesthetics on modern fabrics.

What should you look for when investing quality denim?

How it’s made and crafted, starting with the fabric quality and its contents. If you buy a skinny jeans for instance you want it to recover 100% and not bag out, that means you shall look at the composition label and make sure you have elastic and poly wrapped up together in the cotton stretch weft. If you are looking for natural soft touch you shall be looking at Tencel or Modal. Sustainability is finally becoming another key factor.  You have to pay attention to the quality of the wash and low environmental impact. With the most up to date technologies there is no need of so much chemical stuff to achieve good looks and water waste is the biggest concern in the production process of a pair of Jeans. Unfortunately, not many brands are disclosing this information quite yet, but this will certainly change by 2020.

 

Sarah Ahmed

DL1961 Creative Director

What is your favorite piece of denim you’ve ever owned? 

My DL1961 Zoe jacket is one of those pieces that always adds instant cool. It’s a new style for Spring/Summer ’17 but I’ve been wearing a sample for ages now. It has the perfect, slightly oversized, boxy fit of a really great vintage jacket but feels very of-the-moment with a raw-cut, released hem.

 What are the current trends you are seeing in the denim market? 

High rises and reworked vintage fits are still going strong. The structure of slightly heavier-weight, 100% cotton (or at least the look of it) is also more prevalent than ever. Interesting hem details, patch working, embroidery and hyper distressing are also upcoming trends.

What’s your best tip to keep your denim in perfect condition?

Keep ‘em dirty. Denim is sturdy by nature and ours are antibacterial. Hand-wash if you really need to, otherwise just throw your jeans in the freezer overnight for an easy refresh.

For a full round up of some of our favorite denim in the market check out the images below.

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